Welcome the yellow phase with rosé.

Just in time for National Rosé Day, which hits the second Saturday of June, stay-at-home orders have loosened for small get-togethers. The weather is perfect for pink wine.

I’m happy to see rosé become available year-round, untethered from the association with sweetness. Why not? Light, comparatively low-alcohol and refreshing, rosé is fun in a bottle. Even better, dry rosé is eminently pairable with just about anything at any time. But summers run on rosé.

Going back to dry rosé’s spiritual homeland in Southern France, Barton & Guestier 2018 Côte de Provence goes in with a touch of sweetness and ends with a light bitterness, flanking a thin mid-palate. This is a good drink to blend into the background of a hot day. Extra points for an interesting bottle, but like most B&G wines, this is a light reflection of the category — one that works but doesn’t wow. $13. ♦♦♦

You don’t need to make sangria with Charles & Charles 2017 Columbia Valley Rosé. This off-dry wine is bursting with strawberry and mandarin orange flavors with a light finish, making it an ideal, all-American sipper. The 2017 is tasting fine, but the 2018 or 2019 would be better choices. Put a pin in this wine, which features a stylized Old Glory on the label, for Independence Day. $13. ♦♦♦♦

For summer brunches and light fare, or for any other reason, reach for La Vieille Ferme 2018 France Rosé. The most food-friendly of the trio featured here, this wine has a floral nose, strawberry and watermelon character, and a round frame and texture. Yet, the wine has a nice acidity that makes it pairable with a range of foods. $10. ♦♦♦♦ 1/2

Remember to serve rosé super chilled. When you or your guests are outside on a hot day, wine in a glass will warm up quickly. Chill wine in the freezer for 15 minutes before serving and keep it on ice for maximum enjoyment.

GRADE: Exceptional ♦♦♦♦♦, Above average ♦♦♦♦, Good ♦♦♦, Below average ♦♦, Poor ♦